By Gal, Flooring Specialist at Portofino Flooring | Last updated: March 2026
Laminate flooring installs as a click-lock floating floor — no glue, no nails, and no professional required. Most homeowners complete a 200 sq.ft room in 4 to 6 hours. This guide covers every step from subfloor preparation through final trim, using the exact specs for Portofino laminate.
For a complete overview of laminate flooring including specs and pricing, see our Laminate Flooring Complete Buyer's Guide.
What you need before you start
Tools required:
- Tape measure and pencil
- Pull saw or circular saw for cutting planks
- Tapping block and rubber mallet
- Pull bar for end rows
- Spacers (1/4 inch) for expansion gaps
- Straight edge or chalk line
- Moisture meter (recommended for concrete subfloors)
- Knee pads
Materials required:
- Portofino laminate planks — measure your room and add 10% for waste
- 6mil plastic moisture barrier if installing over concrete
- Transition moldings for doorways (T-molding or reducer)
- Baseboards or quarter round to cover expansion gaps
Optional but helpful:
- Jigsaw for complex cuts around pipes and obstacles
- Table saw for ripping long planks
- Pull strap for tight spaces
Before you start — critical notes for laminate
Laminate is not SPC vinyl. The HDF core behaves differently than a stone-plastic composite core. Two things matter more with laminate than with vinyl:
Moisture management is critical. Laminate's dense HDF core resists moisture well but is not impervious. Never install laminate in wet rooms — bathrooms, basements, or high-moisture kitchens. For above-grade concrete subfloors, always install a 6mil moisture barrier even if the concrete appears dry.
Acclimation is non-negotiable. Laminate must acclimate to the room's temperature and humidity before installation. Leave boxes flat and unopened in the installation room for 48 hours at normal room temperature (65–85°F) and normal humidity (30–60% relative humidity). Installing cold laminate in a warm room causes the planks to expand after the joints are engaged — potentially buckling or closing expansion gaps.
Step 1 — Prepare the subfloor
The subfloor must be clean, dry, flat, and structurally sound. Laminate is less forgiving of subfloor imperfections than SPC vinyl — its click joints will rock and eventually fail over humps or dips larger than 3/16 inch over 10 feet.
Wood subfloors:
- Check for squeaks — locate and drive screws through the subfloor into joists to eliminate them
- Check for soft spots — any give underfoot indicates a problem that must be fixed before installing
- Drive any raised screws or nails flush or slightly below the surface
- Sand high spots flat, fill low spots with floor leveling compound and allow to fully cure
- The subfloor must be at least 3/4 inch thick for adequate support
Concrete subfloors:
- Sweep and vacuum thoroughly — any debris will create high spots under the floating floor
- Check for moisture with a plastic sheet test: tape a 24x24 inch piece of plastic sheeting to the concrete, seal all edges, leave for 72 hours. If moisture appears on the underside, install a 6mil plastic moisture barrier
- Fill cracks and low spots with floor leveling compound — allow to fully cure before proceeding
- Grind down any high spots or ridges
Remove baseboards before installing — trying to slide planks underneath creates gaps and is harder than it sounds. Number the baseboards so they go back in the right locations.
Step 2 — Install moisture barrier (concrete subfloors)
If your subfloor is concrete — whether moisture was detected or not — install a 6mil polyethylene moisture barrier before laying laminate.
Roll the barrier out across the entire floor area. Overlap seams by at least 8 inches and tape them with moisture barrier tape. Run the barrier 2 inches up the walls — you will trim the excess after baseboards are installed. The barrier does not need to be glued down — it sits loose under the floating floor.
Note: Portofino laminate has a pre-attached 1.5mm EVA underlayment. Do not add additional underlayment on top of this. Additional underlayment makes the floor too soft and puts excessive stress on the click lock joints, eventually causing them to fail.
Step 3 — Plan your layout
Before laying a single plank, measure the room and plan the layout.
Check the last row width: measure the room width and divide by the plank width. If the last row would be less than 3 inches wide, cut the first row narrower so both the first and last rows are equal and balanced. A 2-inch strip at the wall looks wrong and is structurally weak.
Decide your running direction: run planks parallel to the longest wall in the room for the most natural look. In a hallway, run parallel to the direction of travel. In a room with large windows, run parallel to the main light source — this reduces the appearance of end joints.
Snap a chalk line: snap a chalk line parallel to your starting wall, offset by one plank width plus 1/4 inch. This gives you a straight reference line — walls are rarely perfectly straight, and starting off a wall directly often results in a visibly crooked floor by the time you reach the other side.
Step 4 — Install the first row
Place 1/4 inch spacers against the starting wall — these create the expansion gap and stay in place until installation is complete.
Start in the left corner with the tongue side facing the wall. The groove faces into the room for the next row to connect to.
Connect planks end-to-end along the first row by angling the short-end tongue of each new plank at approximately 20-25 degrees, aligning it with the groove of the previous plank, and pressing down firmly to engage the click lock. You should hear and feel a clean click when the joint is fully seated. Use the tapping block and rubber mallet to fully close any gaps — never tap directly on the plank edge.
Cut the last plank in the row to fit, leaving a 1/4 inch gap at the end wall. Save the cut-off piece — if it is 8 inches or longer, use it to start the second row to ensure proper end joint staggering.
Stagger rule: end joints between adjacent rows must be offset by at least 8 inches. This is both a structural requirement and an aesthetic one — aligned end joints look wrong and create weak points in the floor.
Step 5 — Install subsequent rows
Connect each new row to the previous row using the long-side click lock. Angle the new plank at approximately 20-25 degrees, align the tongue with the groove of the installed row, and press down to engage. Use the tapping block to fully close the joint along the entire length of the plank — tap every 12 inches or so, working from one end to the other.
Work row by row across the room, maintaining the 8-inch minimum end joint stagger. Keep 1/4 inch spacers against all walls as you go — add them as you approach each wall.
Cutting around door frames: rather than cutting the plank to fit around the door casing, undercut the casing so the plank slides underneath — the result looks significantly better. Use a handsaw laid flat on a scrap piece of laminate as a depth guide to cut the casing at exactly the right height.
Cutting around obstacles: for pipes, vents, and other floor-level obstacles, trace the shape onto the plank with a pencil and cut with a jigsaw. Leave a 1/4 inch gap around all fixed objects — cover with an appropriate escutcheon or trim piece.
Step 6 — Install the last row
Measure the gap between the last full row and the wall — subtract 1/4 inch for the expansion gap. If this measurement is less than 3 inches, you should have adjusted the first row width during layout planning.
Use a circular saw or table saw to rip the last row planks to the correct width. Install using the pull bar to engage the long-side click lock — there is not enough room to use the tapping block in the final row.
Step 7 — Install transitions and trim
Remove all 1/4 inch spacers from around the perimeter. The expansion gap should be consistent — approximately 1/4 inch — all the way around.
Quarter round or baseboards: reinstall original baseboards or install new quarter round molding to cover the expansion gap. The molding sits on top of the floor and is nailed to the wall — never through the floor. The floor must be able to move freely beneath the trim.
Doorway transitions: install T-molding in doorways between two rooms on the same level. Use reducer molding where laminate meets a lower floor surface such as tile. Transition strips are required — never run laminate continuously under a door without a break, as this prevents free movement.
Trim the moisture barrier: if you installed a 6mil barrier on concrete, trim any excess that extends above the baseboard line with a utility knife after the trim is in place.
Step 8 — Final inspection and cleanup
Walk the entire floor and press firmly on each plank — listen and feel for any hollow spots, rocking, or clicking that indicates a joint is not fully seated. Use the tapping block to reseat any loose joints while you still have access.
Check all expansion gaps are clear — no wood shavings, debris, or trim pieces sitting inside the gap preventing movement.
Let the floor rest for 24 hours before moving heavy furniture back in. This gives the click joints time to fully settle and the floor to adjust to the room's conditions.
Clean the floor with a barely damp mop and a pH-neutral hard floor cleaner — wring the mop thoroughly. Never wet-mop laminate.
Common laminate installation mistakes
Installing in a wet room. Laminate does not belong in bathrooms, below-grade basements, or high-moisture kitchens. No installation technique compensates for incompatible conditions.
Skipping acclimation. Installing straight from a cold delivery is one of the most common causes of buckling and joint failure in laminate. 48 hours minimum, 72 hours is better.
No expansion gap. Laminate expands more with humidity changes than SPC vinyl. Without the gap it will buckle — usually in summer when indoor humidity rises.
Adding extra underlayment. The pre-attached EVA underlayment is all that is needed. Adding more makes the floor too soft, which stresses the click joints and causes premature failure.
Tapping directly on the plank edge. Always use a tapping block. Direct mallet blows chip and damage the tongue and groove, preventing joints from closing fully.
Not staggering end joints. Aligned end joints across adjacent rows look wrong and create structural weak points. Always maintain at least 8 inches of offset.
Installing over carpet or soft material. Laminate must float over a hard, flat surface. Never install over carpet.
Frequently asked questions about laminate installation
Does Portofino laminate need underlayment? No — Portofino laminate has a pre-attached 1.5mm EVA underlayment. Do not add additional underlayment. Extra underlayment causes the floor to feel spongy and stresses the click lock joints.
Can laminate be installed over tile? Yes — if the tile is flat, firmly adhered, and in good condition. Loose or cracked tiles should be removed or repaired first. Heavily textured tile should be leveled with floor leveling compound before installing laminate.
Can laminate be installed over hardwood? Yes — if the hardwood is flat and firmly fastened with no soft spots or squeaks. Sand any high spots flat before installing.
Can laminate be installed in a kitchen? In a dry, lower-moisture kitchen where spills are cleaned immediately — yes. Not recommended near the sink or dishwasher, or in households with pets or young children. For moisture-prone kitchens, SPC vinyl is the safer choice.
How long does laminate installation take? A first-time DIYer typically completes a 200 sq.ft room in 4 to 6 hours including subfloor prep. Experienced installers complete the same room in 2 to 3 hours.
What happens if I damage a plank after installation? Individual planks can be replaced by removing rows back to the damaged plank, replacing it, and reinstalling the rows. Because laminate is a floating floor it can be disassembled without damage to surrounding planks.
Can laminate be installed over radiant heating? Yes — with conditions. The surface temperature must not exceed 85°F. Ensure the radiant system has been running for at least 3 weeks before installation so the subfloor has reached equilibrium. Turn the system off 24 hours before installation and leave it off for 24 hours after.
Shop Portofino laminate flooring
AC4 commercial-grade scratch resistance. Lifetime residential warranty. 10mm with pre-attached EVA underlayment. FloorScore certified and CARB2 compliant. Free 12-inch samples available. Ships nationwide in 3 to 7 business days. 30-day return policy on unopened orders.
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